Dating chanel jewellery
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From the beginninmg of Chanel's collaboration with Maison Gripoix in the 's, pieces were made to accompnay an ensemble for Chanels fashion shows. Many were one off pieces and were not signed. In reference books such pieces are usually dated from the date of the known first signature, to Chanel's death in The signature was simple - 'CHANEL' was either stamped directly on to the piece, or was attached via a hangtag for sautoirs for example. There was one small variation - for the Haute Couture pieces and therefore of the highest standard three stars were also included, immediatedly below 'CHANEL'.
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I have been asked many times to advise on how to spot fake Chanel jewellery, especially now that it is so popular and expensive. The obvious reply is to handle as much vintage Chanel as you can - but this is not exactly practical for most people! If you know Chanel well it is easier to spot a fake - the weight must feel substantial, the workmanship is of the highest class, and the signature must be authentic see below. If you pick up a piece of Chanel vintage jewellery it must not feel light or tinny, I was once shown a supposed Chanel necklace that seemed to have all the correct markings but it felt very light and when the charms knocked together it sounded like a cheap wind chime! Something else to look for is obvious soldering marks.
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You can actually buy royal-approved replicas of the Queen’s jewellery
Busts of scholarly-looking gentlemen watch over the jewels, which seem to pulsate with an almost primordial power. Oversized gold cuffs speak of ancient civilisations; beautifully backlit diamonds glow iridescently; and topaz stones withhold secrets in their cloudy depths. Many of the designs are centred around bold central motifs — in the case of the Fascinante necklace, a two-carat pear-cut diamond set against a deep blue enamel background or, in the case of the Hypnotique necklace, a With jewellery, I always prefer for the constraint to be on the manufacturer or the stone sourced, rather than on the creator.
Yet, because of the many ubiquitous themes and designs throughout such a history, it can often be hard to contextualize an individual piece historically. Unfortunately, throughout the infancy of the Chanel brand, Coco Chanel would rarely put any markings at all on her pieces. While we can only speculate as to why, we know Chanel liked to consider her jewelry as a functional piece of her whole ensemble, so perhaps the lack of date marks was intended to make each piece of jewelry less of a stand-alone piece and more part of an entire outfit. The first Gripoix poured glass pieces were done for Chanel around this time as well, marking the beginning of a three-generation collaboration. Ironically enough, the only pieces produced around this time that bore the Chanel name were not made by Chanel.